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View Full Version : First try at a BleedinEdge case mod



Killer Munkey
07-17-2006, 04:35 AM
Whats up guys. After i'm out of work today i'm gonna begin to start my first large planned out case mod. What i'm shootin for is to get my water cooler (which is quite large) to fit inside a case with everything else.

Atm my water cooler is a large contraption that sits in its own wood box I made 2 feet from the case with tubing and power running between them. It works just fine in its current form but its a bloody pain to move it any where.

I'll post up pictures a little later of what i'm modding.



One possible problem I might have though, which i'd love any input on, is about EMF (electro magnetic field) my MAG-3 pump puts out. If the water cooler box that has the MAG-3 pump in it is sitting to close to the monitor, the monitor gets wavey lines that run across it and it hurts my eyes pretty bad to.

So i'm a little worried that the pump's large EMF will screw with all the PC components when put inside a case or that it will always be to close to the monitor and the wavey lines will be the norm( which is not good =( )

So possible solutions are....
1. Some how trapping the EMF. I'm thinking perhaps some metal screen drapped around the pump and then hooked up to a ground pin on a molex connector....

2. Or buy a DC powered pump which i'd like not to do becauses thats 40-50$ but i'll do it if theres no other way.



So what do you guys think?

liquidcooled
07-17-2006, 06:06 AM
did you know that the OCZ power supplies use titainium to sheild from EMF?

Also i have a koolance Exos2 with two mags in it that sits on top of my pc, and never any problems...pc wise.....CRT monitors a different story.

Killer Munkey
07-17-2006, 06:10 AM
Got another idea, i'm gonna see if wrapping the pump in allunium foil stops the EMF interferance.

Yeah i think LCDs are more immune EMF than CRTs are. But you might be right Liquid, most pc components probably have shielding built in some how. I hope the foil or screening fixes the EMF interferance on my CRT so i can start cutting my case.

RotorHead
07-17-2006, 03:35 PM
KM, if I remember correctly, I think one of the water cooling companies make an EMI shield for thier pumps........I just can't remember which one..:beat:

I'll look around a bit......

RotorHead
07-17-2006, 03:39 PM
Ahhhh.......Got it....

http://sharkacomputers.com/aqcofumejafp.html

Looks like it is designed for the Eheim series pumps.....Guess you could mod it thow. :thumb:

Killer Munkey
07-18-2006, 06:11 AM
Thanks for the link RH. It might work if my pump was smaller but the Mag-3 pump is a beast of a pump. 15ft head height and 350gph, needless to say its a large pump:D

I wasn't able to get time to do the EMF shield testing yesterday (screening or foil) but i did find a 2 by 4 to use as new legs for the case. I drew out the kind of setup i'm thinking about going for. So see the picture i attached. Because the radiator is so large i have to sink it into the bottom of the case and have it rest on a cut out section of the wood legs.

One new question i have before i start cutting the case. I'm wanting to ditch the large resivior i have been using. So that means i gotta use a T-line for filling. Could any experienced T-line user give me an idea of how to incorporate it into my setup?

BB_One
07-18-2006, 08:13 AM
So possible solutions are....
1. Some how trapping the EMF. I'm thinking perhaps some metal screen drapped around the pump and then hooked up to a ground pin on a molex connector....



Wrapping it in aluminum foil and connected to ground might in fact not do it. And in a sense do the opposite.

Wrapping it in chicken wire fencing ensuring that fencing does not touch the pump and connected to ground will more then likely do it.

It is called a Faraday Cage other form of it is also knowned as TEMPEST shielding primarely used in the Army originally, google around you should find tips and hints on how to build the most appropriate one for you.

I used to improvise them when on Satellite stations sites and I was getting interference from the outside world. In my case it was a temp solutions until our engineers built one that looked better and more professional but in short same effects and better looks which we could sell for thousands of dollars to our customers.

Ground: Avoid the Molex ground and use the electical ground from the wall outlet _ Take OHM meter and connet to the ground of the electical outlet and touch PC Casing while PC is powered up - make sure you have solid contact and read Ohm - should read less the 1 Ohm, anything above is consider bad connection or floating ground.

Snafu
07-18-2006, 10:52 AM
Isn't a t-line just a mini reservoir? If so then I believe T-line needs to be in the highest spot so air can bubble out (similar to a reservoir). based on this it should go between the highest water block and the pump. Might get better results if the tubing from the block arcs upwards to the T-line then downwards to the pump. Better chance to get the bubble out.

Best to have the water guys confim this before delving into it.

Mikki
07-19-2006, 10:25 AM
We want pics! We want pics! :chit:

Killer Munkey
07-20-2006, 07:25 AM
pics will be up tonight at one point. It'll only be of what i'm modding on my supplies :D

Mikki
07-20-2006, 07:42 AM
No matter....progress is progress.....;)

Killer Munkey
07-24-2006, 05:14 AM
Project finally started yesterday. Only made it halfway through the first cut before i had to go see my g/f . I have pics taken of the progress so far but don't have the software to upload them from the camera to the comp. so i'll post all the pics when i'm through :D

evilangel
07-25-2006, 12:29 AM
Isn't a t-line just a mini reservoir? If so then I believe T-line needs to be in the highest spot so air can bubble out (similar to a reservoir). based on this it should go between the highest water block and the pump. Might get better results if the tubing from the block arcs upwards to the T-line then downwards to the pump. Better chance to get the bubble out.

Best to have the water guys confim this before delving into it.

the T-Line does act as a small reserviour and bleeding point to get the air out I use to have my t-Line directly infront of the pump intake and it never used to cause any trouble you do not necessarily need it at the top of the system as there should not be any air in the blocks this should be purged through by the water and the air should expell into the t-line

Killer Munkey
07-26-2006, 10:17 AM
Still no luck with pics. The discs for the camera are down at my aptment in southern illinois and i'm up in chicago. But i am still taking pictures of the progress. Atm, i got the case bottom cut out and the woodbox for the radiator made and screwed on to the case.

Next part of the project would be mounting the pump to the case and setting up the w/c blocks so i can start a leak test. I am starting to like how it'll turn out. I'm gonna be using at least half the amount of tubing that i used in my old setup. Perhaps i could get by with a smaller pump then.

Soooo do you guys recommend a t-line right after the the pumps outflow ?

Another question, should i get a smaller , easier to mount pump, cuz the MAG-3 is 3''x3''x4'' on a conservite guess. Could anybody recommend a good DC pump?

Killer Munkey
08-01-2006, 11:14 AM
The w/c is assembled and testing will begin shortly. If the testing goes well i'll then have my rig up and running and be able to post all the pics i've been taking of the work. :D

Killer Munkey
08-02-2006, 07:29 PM
Well i got it assembled and its dry testing now, i got to problems i'd like input on if anybody has an experience with using in-line pumps and t-lines.

1. Ok my first problem is one i never noticed. My pump has always been used for 2 years now as a submerged pump in a resivior. So its always been in water. Now that i'm using it with an in-line system, no resivior, I noticed it leaks! hurray! :(

I'm not to sure how to get it to stop other than taking it apart and sealing up the screws and such with silicon.


2. The second problem is that I don't know how fast a t-line system can bleed itself out of air. Atm the water is so full of air that its white instead of clear water color. The t-line is as high as it can get so i'm not sure how i could speed things up of bleeding it out.

Anybody who has used and successfully bled out a t-line share their story on what they did.


Thanks for any input guys.

Killer Munkey
08-04-2006, 04:42 AM
I ordered up a DC powered Mag II pump from danger den. Hopefully it solves my leaking problems and my EMF problems at the same time. Plus its smaller. I'll keep ya guys updated :)

nutcase
08-04-2006, 05:20 AM
:d

Killer Munkey
08-04-2006, 05:46 AM
LOL. I'll get pics up as soon as I can. Jeez you guys are pushy :lol: :lol:

nutcase
08-04-2006, 06:08 AM
LOL. I'll get pics up as soon as I can. Jeez you guys are pushy :lol: :lol:

who, Us Pushy? :chit: :yup: :rotflmao: :fire:

BTW: have fun with getting that water cooling system taken care of. one of mine has a leak and I cannot find it

Just Learnin'
08-04-2006, 07:22 AM
The new pump will also likely solve the bleeding problem as well. :thumb: If the old pump leaks it will actually draw in air on the low pressure side through the seal/gasket whatever.

Killer Munkey
08-04-2006, 05:11 PM
OK i got pics! yeah!

This is what i started out with, my old case, my old water cooler case and my big new full tower right next to it :D
http://img154.imageshack.us/img154/8901/phto0001jv0.th.jpg (http://img154.imageshack.us/my.php?image=phto0001jv0.jpg)

Man my water cooler was dirty, especially the radiator
http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/8122/phto0003hg8.th.jpg (http://img132.imageshack.us/my.php?image=phto0003hg8.jpg)

Next after some help from my Dad whose a lot better than I at making measured cuts on wood, I have the cleaned out radiator sitting in the hole i made in the bottom of the case.

The case is raised up about 4'' off the ground on a box my dad and I made out of 2x4s. I did this because the radiator would take up all the room in the case if i didn't sink it down a little bit. Also the MAG 3 pump seen mounted there is going to get replaced by a DC powered MAG II from danger den, so it will take up less room and not leak.

http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/5746/phto0006hr5.th.jpg (http://img89.imageshack.us/my.php?image=phto0006hr5.jpg)


And last but not least for now, what it looks like with the water blocks hooked up to it. I measured out who much tubing i'd need to run it from block to block and it should work out.

http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/9923/phto0008tp6.th.jpg (http://img215.imageshack.us/my.php?image=phto0008tp6.jpg)

more work is one the way pending the arrival of the new pump.

Comments, thoughts or ideas welcome ^^

RotorHead
08-04-2006, 08:18 PM
Great stuff KM.......keep it coming :thumb:

Mikki
08-05-2006, 08:50 AM
Hardcore! Looks like you got your work cut out for ya, looking forward to more! ;):chit:

bf2nut
08-17-2006, 09:22 PM
Hardcore! Looks like you got your work cut out for ya, looking forward to more! ;):chit:

in the event of a leak which u might have a few that may pop up spend the money on fluid xp non conductive fluid.i swear by it and the uv green or blue(im using blue now)look awesome.:)

keep up the good work.and just soi u know home depot wtc sell tons and tons of 1\4
3\8 and 1\2 fittings t lines etc for cheap as heck!:yikes:

Killer Munkey
09-01-2006, 01:43 PM
Ok back after a couple weeks of inactivity. I moved back down to school for my last year of college and just got internet a couple days ago.

Because i was working on my case right up to the day I moved i was unable to post any updates to what i've done, and i've changed a lot.

I'l post up pictures tonight but in words i've done:

New pump DC powered 150GPH one

1/2 IN D 5/8 OUT D Tubing

Danger Den fillport.

The rest of the design is the same but it is perfectly leak free for my 24 hour leak test and has been running like a champ for 2 weeks now. I'll get pics of it up soon i hope.

Anybody have any advice on UV dye for the water? is it worth the bling or not so much?

RotorHead
09-01-2006, 01:48 PM
Sweet.......:rock: :rock:

ol'norton
09-07-2006, 02:47 AM
in the event of a leak which u might have a few that may pop up spend the money on fluid xp non conductive fluid.i swear by it and the uv green or blue(im using blue now)look awesome.:)

keep up the good work.and just soi u know home depot wtc sell tons and tons of 1\4
3\8 and 1\2 fittings t lines etc for cheap as heck!:yikes:

What's home depot wtc:?:

govy
09-13-2006, 08:09 AM
What's home depot wtc:?:

Home Depot is a hardware store chain here in the states.


http://www.homedepot.com/

Snafu
01-12-2007, 08:52 PM
Hey KM, where are the pics? Lost in the move? :lol:

Killer Munkey
01-16-2007, 06:19 AM
Pics coming up. And yes , i have been moving around, last semester of college :D

Killer Munkey
01-16-2007, 06:50 AM
http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/1952/phto0002wr0.th.jpg (http://img412.imageshack.us/my.php?image=phto0002wr0.jpg)

http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/9237/phto0003xe3.th.jpg (http://img300.imageshack.us/my.php?image=phto0003xe3.jpg)

http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/8830/phto0004zt3.th.jpg (http://img300.imageshack.us/my.php?image=phto0004zt3.jpg)

http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/5354/phto0005ev1.th.jpg (http://img412.imageshack.us/my.php?image=phto0005ev1.jpg)


So theres the current state of the mod. Temps are a bit warmer than my out of case cooling before, but i'll take the 3 degree C for simplicity. The pump is a small danger den 150gph one thats tucked behind the hard drives, its o so small. Then i got my T-line with my cpu and gpu block then back to the heater core for cooling by 2x 120mm fans.

I'm thinking about painting the wood and other than that maybe replacing the car heater core with a real pc radiator from danger den or somebody.

So what do ya guys think?

*edit*
my camera is pretty cheap and won't produce clear pictures from more than 2 feet away lol.
*edit*